Upscale Denver restaurant shuts down for the week after fire in wood-burning stove

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Chef Kelly Whitaker couldn’t stand the heat of Bruto’s kitchen this weekend.

The owner of the Latin-inspired restaurant at 1801 Blake St., was cooking as a “guest chef” on Sunday, Feb. 5, taking Bruto executive chef Michael Diaz de Leon’s place for the night in for a wine pairing dinner with winemaker Rosalind Reynolds of Emme Wines.

He was using a Flambadou, a cast iron funnel designed to ignite and melt fat quickly, to create an oyster dish with pork cheek fat on top. “When I cook with wood-fire, I like it hot,” Whitaker said. But a spark caught in the ductwork of the wood-fired oven and quickly put an end to the evening.

“I had taken one course out to a couple of tables before we had to shut it down,” he said.

Poached mangos in cast iron sit inside Bruto's wood-fired oven. (Provided by Jeff Fierberg)

Provided by Jeff Fierberg

Poached mangos in cast iron sit inside Bruto’s wood-fired oven. (Provided by Jeff Fierberg)

Whitaker and his staff extinguished the fire, but there were still remnants left in the ductwork, so they cleared out the 20 guests and called the Denver Fire Department; firefighters showed up quickly and were able to save the specialty wood-fired oven, which came from Italy.

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