If you want to combine beautiful scenery, great weather, and picture postcard villages with some of the most well-regarded wines in France, then a visit to Provence is the trip for you.
Getting there
To be able to cover both Whispering Angel and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the best option is to book what is called an open-jaw itinerary which means that you fly into one airport and out of another. This is usually at no extra cost. For example, British Airways fly to Nice, which is closer to Chateau D’esclans, but Marseille would be nearer to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. Car hire is readily available from both locations, but you could also arrange transfers with a local company to your accommodation.
Chateau D’Esclans – Home of Whispering Angel
Sacha Lichine had a vision to create the greatest rosés in the world and ignite a “Rosé Renaissance” when he bought the chateau in 2006. Château d’Esclans is now home to some of the most expensive and finest roses in the world. Their Whispering Angel brand has been instrumental in the recent rise in Provence rosé popularity, with the brand being one of the most recognised rosé wines in the world. Its almost cult status has led to a new partnership with British Airways which has just opened a pink-themed Whispering Angel bar to their lounge in Heathrow’s Terminal 5.
Despite being seen as a luxury producer, the chateau produces everything from approachable, easy-drinking rosés like The Pale to L’Eclans, which if you tasted blind, would swear was a Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet.
The chateau and grounds are beautiful, so well worth a visit if you want to stock up on rosé from the onsite store. The shop is open seven days a week during the peak summer period. Private tastings with a tour are offered but must be booked in advance. This is well worth doing to see the new techniques the vineyard employ to keep their wines at a constant temperature. The impressive cellars may be high tech but they are also aethestically pleasing to view with their immaculate rows of wooden barrels.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is synonymous with red wine with its typical Rhone Valley blend of Grenache Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes. The wines are full-bodied with plenty of red fruit jamminess balanced by an earthiness and a slight herbal hint, unique to Provence.
The village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a charming location to stay with plenty of places to eat, including the Michelin-star Restaurant La Mère Germaine. This has a beautiful terrace for al fresco dining and is also an upmarket hotel. If you would rather have more peace and quiet, you could opt for one of the picture postcard chateaus with rooms.
Chateau de Varenne has the best of both worlds, being situated within a tiny village that offers a restaurant, cafe and bakery within walking distance. The chateau has been restored in a traditional style that could not be more typically French if you want an authentic experience. Despite this, it offers all the creature comforts you would expect from a modern hotel, such as air conditioning in the rooms and an honor bar for a nightcap on the terrace in the balmy summer air. The chateau is only around 10 minutes from many of the vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
For something more lively with plenty to see and do right on your doorstep, the city of Avignon is perfect. Situated around 20-30 minutes from the wine region, this ancient walled city is full of historic treasures. The historic city centre, the Popes’ Palace, all the episcopal buildings and the Saint Bénézet Bridge are listed as world heritage sites by UNESCO. One of the most luxurious hotels to stay in an idyllic location opposite the Pope’s Palace is La Mirande hotel. Originally the site was the palace of a 14th-century cardinal, but it now has a lovely 17th-century façade.
Entering through the heavy wooden doors is like stepping into a cool haven away from the bustle of the city with its expansive terrace. It also houses a Michelin-star restaurant.
The city is most well known for its partially built bridge. The Saint Bénézet Bridge was built around 1180 to link the city to Villeneuve-les-Avignon. The bridge was gradually eroded by flooding, and now only four arches remain together with the 12th-century Saint Nicholas Chapel remains. Avignon is also a great destination for foodies, with two further Michlin-star restaurants in the city – La Vieille Fontaine and Pollen. The three-star L’Oustau de Baumanière is also nearby. For something more casual in a lively square, Le Molière, on Place de Corps Saints, offers great value set menus of Provencal cuisine.
Avignon is also a great base for wine tours to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the surrounding Rhone Valley. There is everything from a very reasonably priced afternoon tour to a couple of Chateaus starting from $85 to a full-day private tour, which will cost around $500. An easy way to taste a wide variety of Rhone wines without needing to tour several vineyards is the Gigondas tasting room in the heart of the Gigondas village. Over 100 Gigondas wines are available to taste, and are sold at cellar-door prices. Similarly, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape itself, Le Nez du Pape offers a range of wines to taste and buy from the AOC as well as other Rhone wines.
Away from wine tasting, there is so much to explore in Provence from beautiful beaches to natural gorges and the lavendar fields. So be sure to allow enough time to explore further afield in this beautiful region. How ever you choose to spend your time in Provence, from its rich history and culture to its stunning natural beauty and delicious food and wine, Provence has something to offer everyone.
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