Bobbing on the surface of the vast ocean, I’ve never felt smaller. I am waiting for a shark that’s the size of a minibus. My heart pounds as the monster materialises, advancing towards me, mouth agape.It’s an endangered whale shark, about six metres long, and as I fin along beside the filter-feeder, I stifle a delighted squeal through my snorkel.Like many tourists, it’s this bucket-list experience that brought me to World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef, in Western Australia, some 1,200km (750…
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