What’s In A Name? At New York’s Steak Frites A Whole Lot More Than Beef And Fries

Sorry to shock you, but French fried potatoes were not the invention of any French cook. The term “french fry” has nothing to do with the country of origin, but instead refers to a method, called in English “frenching,” of cutting the potatoes into narrow strips. In France they are called pommes frites, but are not even mentioned by Escoffier, Larousse Gastronomique or the 1846 anecdotal Paris à Table or A Bite-Sized History of France (2018). Nevertheless, French fries, or just plain fries or frites, have taken the world by storm and they are a dish that always gets consumed ravenously, especially when set next to steak, whether it’s in Boston, Bangkok of Beijing.

The French term steak frites refers to a bistro/brasserie staple, once made from the rump cut but more usually these days from the onglet, or hanger steak cut from the blade. It has wonderful flavor and a characteristic chewiness.

Okay, enough history. Steak Frites in Hell’s Kitchen is obviously committed to this traditional dish the way Nathan’s Hot Dogs is to frankfurters. And for its rendering of that single dish, Steak Frites would be worth going to for a fix. But beyond that there is considerable variety, also tied to bistro traditions, from onion soup to baba rhum.

So, too, the décor will put you in mind of France, with its abundance of dark woodwork, black and white tile floors, tilted mirrors and art deco touches. With all hard surfaces—no tablecloths and a wooden ceiling—noise bounces all over the room’s 65 seats at a high level.

Chef/owner Adam Schop has good familiarity with the genre, having worked at Zinc Bistro in Scottsdale, and Le Diplomate in DC, and he’s nailed all the classics you’d expect.

Alex Percival has put together a wine list geared towards bistro fare, with many regional French bottlings under $70, though those above $100 are marked up very high, like the 2018 Domaine Chamonard Fleurie La Madone that sells in stores for $42 but is hiked up to $132 at Steak Frites.

We began with a finely chopped steak tartare ($18) that was pleasantly seasoned and served with crusty bread that went just as well with a thick slab of robust pâté de campagne ($14). As the photo shows, this is the way French onion soup gratinée should look and indicates by its thick browned crust of Gruyère cheese overflowing the crock that what lies beneath is going to be full of sweet gooey goodness ($15).

Gnocchi Parisienne ($25), served as a main course, was, as the dish so often is, very soft and lacks much flavor, better as a side dish.

The roast chicken ($28) is superlative, well browned, succulent and there’s plenty of it for a very good price. So, too, the hanger steak, at $38, is to be applauded, for even if this is considered an inferior cut to a filet mignon or ribeye, it is in fact the cut often saved by butchers for their own meal. The one I enjoyed had just the right amount of texture and was impeccably cooked, along with the requisite French fries. (Has anyone noticed that really good French fries are almost a given in New York these days?) The massive, well-marbled côte de boeuf ($94 ) is intended for two, but our party of four shared the platter with gusto, and I still took some home for lunch.

The menu offers extra sauces, and the au poivre ($5) is welcome, but the morel sauce was bland and not worth $12. Spinach ($9) goes very well with any of the main courses here.

There are four traditional bistro desserts that have been brought to a high standard, including a chocolate soufflé ($16), creamy, eggy clafouti ($14), very moist baba rhum ($14) and rich crème brûlée ($15).

I don’t usually mention waiters by name, but if you’re lucky enough to get Ana as yours, you’re in for a wonderful evening.

So what’s in a name? With Steak Frites, a great deal more than face value. It could easily be just a happy neighborhood joint. As it is, it’s a place for anyone hungry for dishes made sacrosanct in French cuisine long ago to seek out. And take some food home.

STEAK FRITES

496 Ninth Avenue

929-614-5070

Open for lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sat. & Sun.