Why You Should Go To Savannah Now

“That woman just mentioned the C word,” said historian/guide and architecture specialist Kelse Palko of Noble Jones Tours as we passed a group of tourists clustered in Monterey Square, one of 22 in Savannah and his personal favorite. The objectionable word was Charleston, the Southern belle that has long overshadowed this Georgia city in travelers’ views, particularly on the culinary front. But as anyone who has spent time in Savannah recently can attest, this atmospheric, genteel architectural gem isn’t in the background anymore.

Standing in this square marked by a towering monument and the city’s trademark Spanish moss dripping from live oaks, visitors have a view of the Mercer-Williams House, the historic home that featured prominently in the novel and film “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” that brought a spotlight notoriety to the city, giving rise to groups of tourists marching past on specialized walking tours. A plotline refresher: the house, originally built for General Hugh W. Mercer, great grandfather of native/son famous songwriter Johnny Mercer, was later owned by antique dealer Jim Williams and was the scene of the 1981 murder of Danny Hansford, Williams’s employee/lover. Williams was tried four times while Savannah society and its flamboyant characters provided the backdrop and was ultimately acquitted. By day, visitors can admire the Greek Revival/Italianate/Renaissance Revival architecture and furnishings, including many of Williams’ elaborate antiques. By night, those who choose to explore the haunted side of the city, named one of the most haunted in the country, can do a private tour with the colorful and colorfully named Lady Ravenwood of 6th Sense World. Apparently, Hansford occasionally puts in an appearance on the house’s balconies.

If he does in fact appear, he would be hardly alone in this area; the Historic District is known for ghostly tales (Bonaventure Cemetery as well; Angela Sergi of Savannah Heritage Tours will explain) but also notable, perfectly preserved mid -19^th century architecture. Jones Street is generally acknowledged as the prettiest street in town, a confection of Greek Revival houses, cobblestones, brick sidewalks, flickering gas lanterns and arching live oaks. And all of the houses have histories behind them with many involving strong, formidable Southern women such as Eliza Ann Jewett, a twice widowed real estate titan responsible for a number of houses on Bull and Jones Streets and who kept building into her 80s.

Another formidable, convention-defying woman is the inspiration for the Perry Lane hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Savannah, the city’s most luxurious, also in the Historic District. A dancer and world traveler, Adelaide Harcourt collected artifacts from around the world from vintage suitcases to birdcages to performance programs and vividly colored paintings. All of these items interspersed in the rooms give the hotel a more personal feel. In truth, though, she’s fictitious, a created muse but it works: the hotel, located in two buildings facing each other across Perry Street, has real personality, a raffish spirit. It also has a concierge, Randy Rodriguez, who can arrange almost anything and one of the best rooftop bars in town, Peregrin, with panoramic views over the city and an array of frozen cocktails such as the Froze, a blend of Aperol, rosé, Lillet and lemon juice that is positively addictive.

Staying here, it’s a 5 minute walk through Chippewa Square to Collins Quarter, a popular place for both locals and visitors for brunch-at this downtown location and one in the middle of Forsyth Park. Top of the line ingredients and artistic presentations turn up in every dish from classic Southern such as Biscuits and Gravy with poached eggs and chicken sausage to over the top Cannoli French Toast composed of brioche, Gran Marnier berry reduction and chocolate chip mascarpone to the seemingly commonplace avocado toast Avo Smash including beet hummus, feta, poached egg and heirloom tomato.

It’s also a 5 minute walk to Husk, the Savannah version of the restaurant also in Nashville and yes, Charleston. Here, executive chef Chris Hathcock, a Savannah native, reinterprets Southern dishes with a focus on artisan farm to table ingredients and complex preparations such as Chicken Liver Tart with Strawberry, Black Locust Vinegar and Wildflower Honey and Striped Bass, Sea Island Peas, Watermelon Radish, Seaweed Broth and Kale. The setting is also a patrician house on a boulevard of wild oaks that is by reputation one of the most haunted in town.

Exceptional ingredients are also the basis of the dishes at Common Thread and its new, more casual, lunch only sibling Wildflower Café at Jepson Center for the Arts. At Common Thread, every dish is exciting, even the oysters with toppings such as green strawberries, shallots, serrano and aromatic vinegar that still let the briny oyster flavor shine through. A smoked beet appetizer is enlivened with strawberries, harissa, feta, mint and dukka spice; a starter pasta of Mafalda, ricotta, spinach, ramps, lamb, dill and pane frito is main course sized and explosively delicious. So is the Crispy Pork Pavé with carrot, ginger, embered broccoli, hakurei turnip and urfa hickory aioli that is as beautiful as it is flavorful.

Intense flavors and artisan ingredients also play a role in two newcomers to the city. Ardsley Station co-owned by chef/restaurateur Tyler Kopkas, his wife Kara and aunt and uncle Steve and Mary Paschall presents elevated versions of earthy comfort food and wood fired meats. Expect hickory smoked ribs, a particularly gutsy shrimp and grits, wood fired rack of lamb with mint and pea pistou and even something that might not sound initially appealing- a pimento cheese bruschetta-surprises with rich flavors and crispy, specialist bread.

At first glance, Brochu’s Family Tradition, which opened late last year, looks like a rowdy roadhouse with TV screens showing sports, music blaring, crowd noise shouting above it. (The outdoor patio is quieter.) The menu may also seem simple: a listing of oyster preparations (among them: grilled with French curry and chipotle; roasted with capers, parsley, benne crunch), peel n’ eat shrimp; raw market fish with pineapple, lemon and olive oil and chicken in whole or half versions with charred, fried and chicken salad with hot sauce, pickles and biscuits. All are prepared perfectly as befits a former Alinea Group principal; Andrew Brochu was the chef at Roister in the esteemed Chicago restaurant group’s stable. Like the team at Ardsley Station, he and wife Sophie, a Savannah native, moved down to the city to start a new chapter. Given the city’s burgeoning culinary status, it’s likely that others will soon follow suit.