Wines For An Early Spring

By John Mariani

The crocuses are poking their way up through the earth, it’s still light at six o’clock and there is a whiff of springtime in the morning air. Which means the foods of springtime will soon be in the markets and stalls—ramps, asparagus, shad roe, peas, strawberries, mint, baby lamb and more. And that offers the opportunity to try new wines that go with these foods. Here are some of my picks for the coming months.

B Cellars 2020 Hudson Vineyard Syrah ($98)—Just released, this is not a wine from New York’s Hudson Valley but from Carneros in Northern California and represents a high point for a grape too often neglected, despite its prevalence in Rhône Valley wines. It’s pricey, but it’s quite lush and very expressive of the varietal character. It would be ideal with roasted baby lamb or Easter ham.

Cockburn’s Special Reserve ($20)—I am always amazed at the low prices for excellent Port, and—although I am among many bewildered by all the categories made in the region—this Reserve Port from a producer established in 1815 is a middle-ground between light Ruby Port and big, bold Vintage Port. So you get body and tantalizing fruit from a Port aged four to five years, rather than ten or twenty. It is, therefore, delicious as an accompaniment to all kinds of cheeses.

Paul Hobbs Goldrock Estate 2019 Pinot Noir ($90)—Sonoma is Pinot Noir country and Hobbs’s Goldrock Estate, at 550 feet above sea level, is located as far west as you can go, giving its vineyards the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean. That helps tame the over-ripeness the grape often achieves under the California sun, so this wine has more nuance and levels of fruit, tannin and acid. With a spring chicken (if such a thing exists) it is a fine choice.

Perla Terra Barolo 2018 ($45)—Made by Dalla Terra from lots in Piedmont’s La Morra, Novello, Monforte d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour and Verduno regions, this blend is a younger, lighter style of Barolo, spending 18 months in oak barrels of varying age, then microfiltered and emerging at a sensible 14% alcohol. Thus, it is a very drinkable Barolo throughout an alfresco dinner. Only 20,000 bottles are made, so this is a very reasonable price.

Open Claim Vineyards Chardonnay 2019 ($75)—Willamette Valley Chardonnays tend to be less woody and sweet than those made south of Oregon, and Open Claims is the latest winery to open in the state’s newest sub-AVA, Mt. Pisgah, Polk County. Owners Brett and Marnie Wall, along with winemaker Tony Rynders, make only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on 55 acres. Their wines are sold through allocation only because of small production. At 13.5% alcohol it is in a sweet spot where the varietal shows its mettle without intrusive flavorings. It would be superb with spring’s salmon or shad roe.

Fiddlehead Cellars 2017 ‘Sweetie’ Late Harvest Grüner Veltliner, Sta. Rita Hills ($35)—Grüner Veltliner is not among my favorite table wines, but this dessert example from Santa Barbara by winemaker Kathy Joseph won me over. It’s a late-harvest wine, meaning the sugars are intensified, and it is delightful all on its own after dinner or with any lighter dessert like fruit pies or strawberries and cream.

de Negoce, Lot 250 “Hillside” Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($19)—Cameron Hughes has made a success of buying lots of wines and (often) slashing prices, and here is a wine that once listed at $65 and can now be bought for $19. The wine is from Washington State, made from “pre-assembled barrel lots of Cabernet Sauvignon from some of Red Mountains finest vineyards like Ciel du Cheval, Quintessence, and Klipsun not to mention the producer’s own estate vineyard.” The alcohol is a little high, but if you like brawny Cabs and good spice, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Syrah and 1% Petite Verdot has plenty going for it. With steaks on the grill it works well.