Yueqi Qi’s spring 2023 collection began with no less an inspiration than the universe: astronauts, faraway planets, and individual conceptions of paradise. “We have this old Chinese saying that one person’s heaven is another person’s hell, but peace can exist in the destitute and destitution can exist in peace,” Qi said over Zoom.
This manifested in abstract prints, skin-baring tops made of pieced-together planets and rocket ships, and a cotton poplin top with a collar made to resemble the neckline of an astronaut’s uniform.
Qi’s own corner of the universe—Guangzhou, China—is a big supplier of denim. After seeing the waste created by these factories, Qi approached one and asked if she could use the discarded textiles for her own collection. “They were hesitating, and I was like, ‘I can show you all your trousers can be made into other trousers,’” Qi said. As a result, the majority of the collection is made from upcycled jeans.
Known for her impeccable technical skills—she graduated from Central Saint Martins and interned at Chanel—Qi seemed to focus on more wearable styles this season, with her signature avant-garde, theatrical flair peppered in. There was a wide range, but a chain-mail-esque material made of twisted, laser-cut fabric used to create a 3D effect was especially compelling and unique, whereas a camouflage minidress felt more anonymous. The balance was perfectly struck in the aforementioned white shirt, which synthesized an original idea with a true wardrobe staple.
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