Zimmermann Resort 2023 Collection

Nicky Zimmermann feels comfortable designing for resort. “It’s a collection that we really have fun doing,” she said, calling out the easy silhouettes and breezy dresses as clothes that “feel nice when you wear them. For resort, that’s what we’re about.” This season she was inspired by photos of glamorous people in the 1950s and ’60s sailing, images she described as “beautiful, idyllic, romantic, relaxing.” It’s certainly more pared back than the abundance of astrological references in her fall 2022 collection, but, as it’s Zimmermann, the collection is still far from simple.

Let’s begin with the most basic silhouettes: the knits. There’a throw-on-and-go cream dress with navy laces at the neck; a shorts and sweater set with a sailboat detail on the bottom left corner of both; and cream pants and a sweater with flouncy cuffs and a wrap-around tie at the waist. Each outfit you could imagine a Kennedy wearing on a boat, or perhaps a character on Succession. In short, they look rich and stylish; not a bad thing.

Another palette cleanser, of sorts, is the elevated casualwear that feels truly plucked out of the ’50s and ’60s. The strawberries-and-cream striped pedal pushers and boat-neck top are quite literal to the inspiration, but they work. The boned bustier on a white mini dress also resembles a vintage undergarment. But here is an example of Zimmermann’s differentiating factor: At first glance, the white dress is just a white dress. Look closer, and the lace skirt features embroidery of a map of the world.

These pleasantly-surprising details are repeated throughout the construction of the designs: the bouncy hemlines reinforced by crinoline, the floral appliqués that take up to two weeks to apply by hand, the sheer blouse heavily embellished with pearls. This is the Zimmermann archetype: intricate, elaborate, feminine gilded lilies. That makes for compelling occasionwear, though it also makes the more minimal outfits stand out. When you get tired of wondering “who’s that girl in the fabulous lilac mini,” turn your attention to the person in white lace bermuda shorts.