Art Meets Jewelry In London Ring Exhibition

Tucked away in London’s leafy Muswell Hill neighborhood, Tomfoolery is one of the city’s under-the-radar secrets; a light and airy jewelry boutique that provides a neutral backdrop for flights of fancy from some of the world’s most creative designers. Until the end of January, the gallery is hosting its annual ARTring exhibition, which sees 28 designers given carte blanche to create a one-of-a-kind ring especially for the showcase. It’s no coincidence that while its form is strictly defined, the ring represents a rich wealth of creative possibilities.

From US-based WWAKE to homegrown talent Ruth Tomlinson, designers from all over the world are represented, with an impressive breadth of style and technique. London-based Lynne MacLachlan used specialist software and 3D printing processes to create a characteristic colorful, sculptural form for the Beam ring, while San Francisco’s Maiden Voyage champions the art of hand engraving in the Golden Thread troupe l’oeil ring. Elsewhere, French maker Marion Lebouteiller’s Absolu Continuous ring pairs gleaming, fibrous silver with sapphires; and West Coast-born Brooke Gregson celebrates color, with ombré enamel, sapphires and diamonds, in the Pinwheel ring (above).

Each ring is sold with a Story card, featuring a sketch from the designer and their thoughts about the piece, inviting buyers into the creative process and deepening the intimacy of the jewels. The full list of participating designers this year, is Alison Macleod, Amanda Coleman, Ana Thompson, Artemer, Brooke Gregson, Ciara Bowles, Daphne Krinos, Derek Mckay Duncan, Eily O Connell, Ellis Mhairi Cameron, Emily Nixon, Fotini Psarouli, Francesca Marcenaro, Franny E, Helen Turbe, Kika Alvarenga, Lynne Maclachlan, Maiden Voyage, Margoni, Maria Lebouteiller, Max Danger, Maya Selway, Mia Chicco, Momocreatura, Ruth Tomlinson, Shimara Carlow and WWAKE.

“ARTring launched with the view that the wearer didn’t have to be engaged,” says Tomfoolery creative director Laura Kay, who started the showcase to provide a creative platform for designers beyond commercial consideration. “People could own a small piece of art by an established jeweler whose techniques and processes stand out and are recognized as one of the jewelers of our time.”

Tomfoolery was set up by husband and wife team Nicki and Peter Kay in 1994, to provide an eclectic curation of contemporary fine and costume jewelry inspiring meaningful, considered purchases. In 2013, the couple’s daughter Laura took over as creative director, introducing an annual wedding showcase and the in-house Muse by Tomfoolery line, followed by Métier by Tomfoolery, a 9ct demi-fine collection designer for everyday. Today, the team travels the world to root out the best in contemporary jewlery design.

“The rings that stand out, are ones with true narrative. Designers have thrown themselves into the creative process, and the ARTrings have pushed boundaries in their existing collections,” says Kay. “It’s a point of inspiration for the makers to rethink their creative process and focus more on narrative and creativity, than a commercial stance.”

It’s a refreshing approach from a retailer known for its broad artistic vision. ARTring carries a tangible feeling of exploration, an invigorating focus on creativity that is no doubt freeing for designers. And, in the consumer rush before the holidays, the showcase represents an opportunity for jewelry collectors to pause for thought.