Ask a Stylist: spring knits and how to style them

I would love some tips for a cool, cosy sweater for spring. I’d also appreciate some help with which sweaters work with which trousers, especially if you want to tuck them in?

I am a knitwear obsessive. It is what I wear more than anything else. Who can forget Marilyn Monroe, looking demure and chic in a black turtleneck and white trousers, curled up on her sofa for a Life magazine shoot in 1953? Or the sleek round-neck cardigans Grace Kelly used in lieu of a jacket over her collared shirts and shirt dresses? Or the total delight of Princess Diana at Balmoral in her wellies, cords and playful pink Peruvian llama jumper?

Knits are as useful in spring as in winter. I’m packing away the thicker wools and heavy cashmere and moving to my mixed weights — cotton cashmere, merino and eventually (please, please make it soon!) silks, cottons and cool linens.

For April, you need to be prepared for anything! In 2022 we had huge temperature swings and plenty of frosty starts.

For casual weekends, look at this Donegal delight from Oubas. It’s British-made and fabulous with a black jean or indeed any denim wash (£175, oubasknitwear.co.uk). It comes in a few shades but you simply cannot beat the natural hue. Plus, merino is wonderfully adaptive for different temperatures.

Cardigans must be approached with caution. It is so easy to look frumpy in them if you get it wrong.

The modern cardigan queen is Sofia Coppola. She makes a classic shape feel hip, and borderline sexy, by leaving the neck nonchalantly undone and pairing it with a slick black trouser, clutch bag, heels and a bright pink lip.

I generally like to wear mine buttoned up so they look like a jumper (unbutton the top button for short necks and large busts). Francis Stories’ covered placket style — which in layman’s terms means a strip covering the buttons — is versatile (£155, gatherandsee.com). Wear it done up and lightly tucked in (more on tucking below) or try it undone over a tee with a slim bottom.

While we are on the subject of cardigans, I was rather taken with this little Chanel-inspired number from Tory Burch (£565, mytheresa.com). Style simply with a slim or wide trouser in black, cream or white (the time is coming!). It’s easier to wear than a jacket, but can elevate the outfit in a similar way, and will work well on a small or medium bust. See Margot Robbie in her cardigan and wide-leg jeans for inspiration, or the achingly cool Danish stylist Pernille Teisbaek in combat trousers and a boxy cardigan.

I generally avoid the high street for knits as it’s hard to find versions that aren’t made entirely of synthetic fibres, which I loathe. The prices are lower of course, but the sweaters will not last well and they take on that felted look — which no amount of de-pilling will shift. Acrylic, especially, makes you unnaturally hot, so you sweat more, have to wash it more and then it ends up a sorry rag.

I’d recommend you buy British (or as locally to you as possible), and choose natural yarns — wools, silks, linens and cottons with minimal additions of other materials. I have some ancient Margaret Howell cotton cashmere short-sleeve jumpers that are perfect for this time of year, worn under a jacket or blazer, or with a chunky cardi slung over. You can get similar ones from Theory (£155, uk.theory.com). Francis Stories also has a lovely cashmere and fine wool mix for those who always feel the cold.

If you want to go preloved, Vestiaire Collective has cashmere from all the designer brands — if well looked-after it can last you a lifetime. I would recommend buying the denser, heavier knits as they wear well. Look for Eric Bompard, Khaite, Extreme Cashmere, Margaret Howell or Barrie.

Now. Tucking. It does not have to be tricky. Please note that if you’re long in the leg you should wear the hem of your knit low and over the waistband with a mini tuck (if you must) at the side. Keeping it longer helps to balance the top half of the body with the bottom half.

If you’re shorter in the leg, then high-waisted trousers and a tuck is good. Most people over-tuck and then wonder why it looks funny. You need a fixed waistband on the trouser or jean to hold the knit in place. A good tuck requires just enough of the fabric, or yarn, in this case, to stay put. If there is a side slit, all the better. I like this knit from Charl (£215, charlknitwear.co.uk)

Take the pointed edge of the front part of the slit, hold it between your thumb and forefinger and just tuck that bit. It will stay and gives a pleasing soft diagonal — which is highly flattering on everyone. It has the added bonus of reducing the volume in the knit too. The key is to not have anything too bulky or thick — if that is not stating the bleeding obvious!

Look for light-ribbed hems or straight edges as these tuck well. If a jumper is chunky, then tucking will make it look like you’re carrying a few extra pounds. It should generally be a bit shorter and lighter — think lofty, airy yarns such as cashmere, silk or linen. Look at Joseph Cashair range, N Peal light cashmere and Brodie Cashmere. Veronica Beard has a lovely lightweight alpaca in magenta (£340, veronicabeard.com). It’s shorter so better on a high waist or a petite figure. For a cooler, more casual option, check out Margaret Howell’s pique sweatshirt (£275, margarethowell.co.uk).

Roll on summer!

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