Boucheron, one of the elite purveyors of classic high jewelry, rewrites the rules and takes a turn toward pop culture in its latest collection, More is More. In a way, the name says it all. The collection embraces extravagant volumes, innovative materials, bold colors and unusual applications. It’s fine jewelry, made to high standards, but doesn’t take itself as seriously as conventional high jewelry.
The pieces are inspired by pop art, with bold colors and plenty of geometric shapes, including spheres and cubes, a nice break from the usual nature-inspired motifs in couture jewelry. There are also unconventional materials: a giant bow brooch contains both magnesium, and bio acetate, which are both weightless compared to gold, which allows the piece to be huge, yet wearable. Bio acetate is a material used by eyeglass manufacturers, the color of which. Boucheron describes “an iconic soda.” It is set with diamonds.
In its marketing campaign, Boucheron shows the pieces on both men and women, with rings and brooches doubling as hair ornaments, suggesting non-conventional, genderless ways to wear jewelry. There are six rings in the collection designed in bold, geometric shapes, variously made using black, white, red or blue lacquer, along with titanium and white gold. One ring is made of Murano glass, and another, a two-finger ring, is made of resin and rock crystal. There are also yellow diamonds, tsavorites, sapphires, diamonds and mother-of-pearl.
A ball-shaped bracelet is paved with green tsavorite garnets, set in titanium and white gold and decorated with lacquer. Another is paved in a black-and-white stripe motif using onyx and diamonds, decorated with lacquer and set in titanium and white gold.
In a flourish of street chic, Boucheron has also designed a pair of hoodie strings that can be attached to the base of a hood or worn as long line earrings. They’re made of citrine, diamonds, black lacquer, onyx, white opal, yellow gold, titanium and aluminum.
Finally, there is a massive flat open-linked necklace that covers the whole chest, made with titanium, and colored using HyCeram, a hybrid ceramic/polymer compound. The orange chain links are paved with mandarin garnets and diamonds and thinly lined with black lacquer.
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