Discovering A Bright Spot In Washington State’s Tulip Country

It’s been a soggy spring in Skagit Valley, the agricultural heart of Western Washington state, roughly 90 minutes north of Seattle. This warm, welcoming cafe serves something few diners offer. Are you ready for the best Reuben outside Manhattan?

A visual feast

Each spring, thousands of visitors pour into the agricultural heartland of Western Washington state, searching for the best backdrop for Instagram-worthy shots. The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival has become a much-anticipated tradition for many residents of the region looking to shake off the gray doldrums of a long winter.

This year, the weather hasn’t cooperated with many days filled by showers. The annual street fair’s opening time was pushed due to high wind warnings.

No worries. This is the Pacific Northwest, where the hardy folks who call this place home take pride in not cracking open an umbrella during a downpour.

A friend and I recently hit the tulip trail, nifty bloom map in hand, ready to wander. But first, lunch.

It all starts with the bread

How many times have you ordered a deli sandwich and wondered how much better it’d be if only it was built on a strong foundation? We’ve become so Subway-ized, so Quizno’d into focusing on what’s stuffed inside that the bread becomes an afterthought.

It was actually the bread that brought me to the door of the cozy cafe in Burlington, a little north of the hotbed of tulip action. I’d heard that The Fairhaven bakes bread using flour produced nearby at Cairnspring Mills, the forward-thinking project launched in 2016 by Kevin Morse. The mission of that mill is to showcase local grains and combine the best of traditional practices with state-of-the-art technology when milling the flour. The truly flavorful lineup of flour has become highly sought after by home bakers and professionals alike.

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While studying The Fairhaven’s menu, one option jumped out: I’m a sucker for a Reuben. And this creation offered the choice between rye and pumpernickel. It’s rare to spot the latter in this part of the world, the German-style bread doubling down on that distinctive rye flavor.

If there was any doubt in which direction I’d go, a friendly local struck up a conversation asking what I was thinking about ordering. (Don’t you love small towns?) When I said the Reuben, he nudged me toward the pumpernickel. Thank you, kind sir.

It wasn’t just that the deeply delicious bread was sturdy enough to deftly envelope the succulent corned beef brisket, gooey Jarlsberg, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. Those toasty slices brought so much character to the party. In between bites, I was instantly transported back in time to Reubens I’ve revered over the years including the massive versions from the original, now shuttered Carnegie Deli and at Katz’s, where I arrived early one morning before the crowds and enjoyed the wildly entertaining slicing show going on behind the counter. Sweet memories, but let’s stay in the moment.

Hardly one note

The Fairhaven bakes an astonishing symphony of bread, from the soft bun used for Cubanos to the flavorful French rolls on which the popular banh mi is built. The BLT is sandwiched between slices of rustic sourdough. Jennifer Shapanuf and Mike Miller — seasoned culinary pros — are co-founders, with Miller taking the lead as head baker.

This humble spot does a brisk take-out business, though there are a few tables inside as well as outdoor seating. When it launched in 2020, the world was in pandemic mode and the demand for to-go helped focus the entrepreneur’s game plan during those early days.

It’s definitely off the beaten track for Seattle residents, but for those heading north to visit Vancouver, B.C., it’s well worth the detour. And don’t forget to try something sweet, too. The cake-like brownies are exceptional, as are the ginger molasses cookies.

Now, you’re ready to explore this ag-centric region. Check out these DIY food trail tours.

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