Hôtel Dame des Arts: a chic arrival on the Rive Gauche

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris

Hôtel Dame des Arts, on Rue Danton, began life as an unprepossessing Holiday Inn — a 1950s calamity sandwiched between two Haussmanian beauties. The main things in its favour were its location slap bang in Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the Rive Gauche and its secret rooftop. When hotelier and co-owner Imshan Jamal appointed Paris-based Israeli designer Raphael Navot to give it a full overhaul in 2019, Navot pointed out that the facade did in fact have some redeeming features — balconies, large windows — and all it needed was a sandblast, some uplighting and a lick of windowsill paint. The interior, however, was another matter.

Navot, garlanded as Maison&Objet’s 2023 Designer of the Year and known for his inventive work at David Lynch’s Parisian nightclub Silencio among other projects, was chosen to reimagine a tired hotel that needed to make waves in a very overcrowded market. The hotel’s new name, an entirely invented mash-up recalling both nearby Notre-Dame and the neighbourhood’s arty heritage, somehow sounds cool and arch at the same time — ie, utterly Parisian.

Navot’s insistence on natural materials and attention to detail is immediately noticeable on entering the hotel’s Crittall-style doors. The moody low-ceilinged lobby, with its black charred wood floor, slatted geometric boiserie and his signature “moon sofa” for guests to cosy up on, has a Zen Japanese feel. This vibe segues into a 50-cover restaurant with velvet banquettes that opens up on to a verdant courtyard beyond. Staff reflect this too, gliding about in monochrome sweatshirts with the hotel’s name printed on (in a font reminiscent of cool Paris fashion label APC), which are, of course, also available to buy at the reception. Thanks to a famous nose, Arthur Dupuy, who developed a signature room scent that spritzes the air throughout, the entire place smells woody and delicious (scented candles are also available for purchase at reception).

Restaurant

The restaurant is not the sort of neo-bistro one might expect from a chichi Left Bank hotel. It is, in fact, an excellent modern Mexican that wears its creative Central American flavours lightly: there isn’t a cactus in sight, but there is, however, an excellent tequila and mezcal list. Chef Othoniel Álvarez Castaneda’s menu is full of surprises, from a deconstructed avo bowl starter crowned with fresh herbs and a roasted cauliflower with a lip-smacking peanut sauce, to a whoppingly generous pork-rib dish to share. A chocolate ganache with mole and coffee ice-cream, with an accompanying mezcal digestif, finished me off. 

While the ground floor has plenty to offer, take the lift (with its plinky-plonky Nouvelle Vague soundtrack) to the dazzling newly opened rooftop bar for a coupe de champagne at dusk. If you time it right, the sun will set quite literally behind the Eiffel Tower, casting the jumble of Saint-Germain-des-Prés’ slate roofs into shadow. 

Rooms

Rooms are petite, with maximum space given over to a comfy queen or king-size bed, and Crittall-style sliding doors on to bathrooms stocked with (non-removable) Diptyque — a fitting choice, given the brand’s first store is just down the road. On my visit the minibar left a lot to be desired, stocking just two Tetra Paks of water, but plans are afoot to broaden the offering. 

Gym and spa

For those who want to atone for their Mexican blowout, what is surely Paris’s most stylish gym lies on floor minus 1. With its wavelike wooden walls, wood-clad exercise machines and weights with attractive leather handles, you will need your best retro workout gear to match. 

Next to it is a sauna which can be booked via reception, and a small spa with products by Absolution. 

Or take out one of the hotel’s electric bikes and wobble your way across the cobbles for a spot of shopping.

• Good for: Rooftop views from the top-floor open-air bar; being in the absolute heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés; the hotel’s excellent Mexican restaurant

• Not so good for: In-room treats

• FYI: A private meeting room can be booked for screenings, parties or even podcast recordings

• Rooms: 109, including four suites

• Double: From €320

• Website; Directions

Rebecca Rose was a guest of Hôtel Dame des Arts.

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