Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2023 Menswear Collection

Lucie and Luke Meier’s practice at Jil Sander pivots around a balanced tension between opposites—a sort of art-meets-life dynamic, as the aesthetic they are after is very much a reflection of their personalities, their beliefs, and the lifestyle that goes with it. Their men’s pre-fall collection was a further confirmation of how the Meiers manage to find a congenial middle ground between contrasting elements.

Menswear is in mutation, shedding its skin after years of ubiquitous street style and sportswear; formality is being revived with injections of comfort, and the gender-fluid discourse is the unavoidable subtext. Elegance isn’t anathema anymore, as the appreciation for tailoring and sartorial finesse has entered the picture as a fresh template—nuanced and diverse. The Meiers’ approach is definitely in alignment. “It would just be nice to see more sense of style around,” they said.

This season they wanted to bring silhouettes and volumes to the couture level already introduced in the co-ed September show. It’s an aspect that resonates with the modern sophistication they’ve brought to Jil Sander, as they believe that “it’s all about making special things that stand out.” Here they inflected refinement with a dynamic sporty-ness. “This couture attitude is always very relaxed,” they mused. “But we definitely like a well-dressed look, more considered and put together.”

Utilitarian elements were given a sartorial twist, and a bit of discreet, un-glitzy glamour was also infused in the mix. On this note, silver-hammered bombé brooches were pinned on a workwear-inspired straight-cut shirt, while a full silver-chain necklace added subtle sparkle to a sharp-tailored black short suit, whose elongated and slightly flared jacket was a blueprint in the collection. It was worn over a pristine collarless white shirt, another distinctive theme, as shirting was explored in attractive variations. Removable high collars and detachable foulards introduced an element of softness on otherwise rigorous boxy shapes; shirt-jackets and A-line tailored shirt-overcoats were a substitute for jackets.

Looking for different, visually stimulating graphics is also part of the designers’ search for expressive, artistic new paths. The standout was a blown-up motif inspired by an exhibition Luke saw in New York of Richard Prince’s car series, whose haphazardly unfinished painted and sanded surfaces were rendered as pastel-colored, chalky abstract strokes needle-punched on cashmere tunics and jumpers. The effect was of intense, poetic precision. “Let’s make fashion more special,” summarized the Meiers. We couldn’t agree more.