MFA Boston Acquires High Jewels By Hemmerle, Wallace Chan And Feng J

The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, has received three gifts from celebrated contemporary jewelry artists that represent their unique approach to their designs and craftsmanship. The objects are a pair of sapphire tassel earrings by Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, Forever Dancing: Bright Star by Wallace Chan and Blue Anthurium by Feng J. These are the first works by Wallace Chan and Feng J to enter a U.S. museum collection.

The museum in a statement says the new acquisitions will be on view in the Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family Foundation Gallery for Jewelry when it reopens in spring 2024 following a renovation. The gallery will showcase approximately 150 pieces from the museum’s jewelry collection, which includes ornaments crafted over 6,000 years and reflects cultures from around the globe. The three newest high jewels will be part of the gallery’s permanent collection.

“These three gifts are transformational for our outstanding jewelry collection. They represent the best of what is being created in fine jewelry today and will make a great statement about 21st-century creativity, design, materials and craftsmanship,” said Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan curator of Jewelry.

Founded in 1893, Hemmerle, based in Munich Germany, is a fourth-generation family-run jeweler known for its one-of-a-kind creations, characterized by innovative material combinations and a dedication to craftsmanship and quality. The large tassel earrings gifted to the MFA include more than 200 carats of blue sapphires suspended from an iron version of the Bavarian crown. The round crown element was taken from one of these early 20th century metals. Hemmerle is known for tassel designs and these particular earrings, created as part of their 125th anniversary collection, demonstrate an innovative way of incorporating the firm’s own history into a contemporary design.

Wallace Chan is a renowned Chinese jewelry creator, visual artist and innovator that exhibits internationally and participates in prestigious art fairs. He is known for his unworldly jewelry creations and sculptures. The Bright Star brooch (top photo) is part of Chan’s Forever Dancing series of brooches that appear as if the insect is floating through the air with wings outstretched. Set with brown, orange, yellow gemstones on a blue-green background, the materials, design and colors demonstrate Chan’s innovation as an artist and gem carver. The wings feature carved rock crystal, mother of pearl, real butterfly wings and titanium, layered in a style of fabrication that is unique to Chan and which offers something unique from every angle. The body of the butterfly features large yellow diamonds set into titanium. Chan was among the earliest high jewelry artists to use titanium, which is lighter and stronger than other metals and by expertly applying high heat it can be anodized to create vibrant colors like the blue-green seen in this piece. The lightness of the materials allows for this surprisingly large yet wearable design.

A spokesperson for Chan noted that the gift to the museum is not directly from the artist, but from a couple who collects his pieces.

Feng J is a Paris-based Chinese jewelry designer and artist. She has pioneered innovative use of lacquer on precious metals and a floating setting, whereby the metal almost disappears around the stones. These techniques can be seen in the Blue Anthurium brooch. The purple and blue gem set brooch is designed in the shape of an anthurium leaf with a large Paraiba tourmaline acting as the plant’s blossoming spadix.