On the third night of Berlin Fashion Week, with all the guests dispersed to the city’s restaurants and hotel bars, there wasn’t a single table not talking about Namilia’s show. It was the sensation of the day. Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl’s biker-core and fetishwear aesthetic was already attracting buzz, but with “In Loving Memory of My Sugar Daddy,” as they named their new collection, they really have the fashion world’s attention.
Li and Pfohl set out to settle scores here, addressing sexism by examining stereotypes around sex workers, trophy wives, and sugar babies. The collection’s special stylistic device paid homage to the world’s most famous luxury bag, which has become an international symbol for wealth. Then they took their visual critique further with veiled Madonnas and crucifix thongs, addressing the dichotomy of sanctuary and frivolity. The show sparked both criticism for its provocation and cheers for its boldness. Wherever you net out, it’s a conversation that is definitely beneficial to Berlin’s status as a fashion city.
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