Perfect Wines for Christmas

We just passed the solstice and are heading for Christmas tomorrow. There is so much great food to be enjoyed before the end of the year—whether you like turkey, a big steak or even a vegan option—so here are some great pairing options for all of them.

The most important thing, during the holidays, is that what you share with your guests is welcoming and quaffable. Think bubbles—although they are not just for special occasions—fun ciders flavored with fruits like dark cherries—and crisp, low-alcohol

whites to welcome your guests.

While I grew up in New York City, not everyone can take the subway home so go gently with your guests with libations throughout the meal. Mulled wine, or hot toddies, are always a great choice to kick off a meal: ideally by a roaring fire.

Lighter Reds

As a general rule lighter reds—think Pinot Noirs from France, California and Oregon—pair well with a number of birds from Guinea hen to turkey. In Italy for the Christmas meal of lamb a great local pairing is Lambrusco. Is doesn’t really get better than dry- to somewhat-sweet sparkling wine made in the great kingdom of pork production Emilia-Romagna.

When choosing a Pinot altitude and alcohol level will come into play. The higher the alcohol by volume, the more intense and sweeter the wine will taste. California has long been producing some big, structured Pinot Noirs—that seem often modeled after Cabernet Sauvignons—both inland and on the coast. I tend to be a fan of the more supple and elegant Oregon versions: think Stoller or Domaine Divio (which is owned by a Frenchman).

Another great choice would be anything made from Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley of France. These wines are juicy, elegant and expressive. Olga Raffault and Bernard Baudry wines from Chinon are both favorites of mine. They deliver intense, subtle flavors for around $20 to $40 a bottle.

Another favorite region for everyday drinking—and holiday pairing—is Beaujolais. The southern part of Burgundy makes stellar wines from Gamay, as opposed to Pinot Noir, and they are a delight. Check out the ten Beaujolais Crus if you want some insight about some of the best values in France.

Bubbles Galore

Well-made sparkling wine can pair with almost everything except an over-cooked steak. Rosé bubbles are perfect with tartare, roast duck and most types of fowl. They also are amazing with caviar and smoked salmon.

Look for value in lesser-known areas of Italy and France. That would include prosecco from Asolo and Crémant the name for sparkling wine produced anywhere outside of the region of Champagne. Franciacorta is basically the Champagne region of Italy. Not all of them make much rose but their wines are splendid.

French Crémant—particularly from Alsace and the Loire Valley—are stellar. What is fun is that they are also produced from a wider range of grapes than your standard U.S. sparkling wine or Champagne. Think Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris and Riesling: all of which are super exciting in the bottle.

One of the best, and most affordable, sparklers produced stateside is Gruet. It is made, most amazingly in New Mexico, by a French family with roots in Champagne. Pop it open when guests arrive, and no one will be any the wiser that is not actually classified Champagne.

Happy Holidays!