Rosanne Karmes, The Founder Of Sydney Evan, On Designing Fun Jewelry And Building A Lasting Business

It’s not easy to become the number-one-selling jewelry designer at a store as prestigious as New York City’s Bergdorf Goodman. It might be surprising to some that the company that earned this achievement isn’t a high-jewelry house focusing on rare gemstones and million-dollar necklaces but is Sydney Evan, a Los Angeles-based company with fine jewelry that’s meant to be personable, wearable, and oh-so-fun. Even if you don’t have a piece of Sydney Evan jewelry, you’ve undoubtedly seen the pieces — or at least noticed founder Rosanne Karmes’s influence in the industry from the legions of copycat designers — including script necklaces, evil eye motifs, and exuberant charms. Karmes tells us about her long career in the industry, defining moments for Sydney Evan, and the secret to her success.

Why did you initially launch Sydney Evan?

I decided to launch Sydney Evan over 20 years ago because I saw a void in the market that I wanted to and knew I could fill. At the time, there wasn’t anyone creating fine fashion jewelry that had meaning or that started at an affordable price point. Early on, I recognized there were plenty of women out there like me: Ones who didn’t want to wait for a man to buy them jewelry. There was a clientele of self-purchasers waiting to be tapped, who also understood the intrinsic value of what they were investing in.

What’s the story behind the company name?

I named Sydney Evan after my father and children. My dad’s name was Sy, whom I named my daughter Sydney after, and my son’s name is Evan. Everything I design has a special and sentimental meaning to it, so it was only natural that my brand’s name reflected that.

What was your first “I’ve made it” moment?

How could I ever forget? I remember this moment like it was yesterday. It was when Bergdorf Goodman called me for an appointment to see my collection. Yes, they called me. It still gives me chills.

How would you describe your design aesthetic?

My aesthetic is classic, modern, and playful. I like to create timeless fine jewelry that also has a sense of humor to it.

How do you approach building a jewelry wardrobe?

My approach would be to first invest in classic styles, and then build by adding in more fun and colorful pieces. Our signature Love necklace, small huggie hoops, and signet rings are a great place to start.

You have many playful and fun pieces that are still fine jewelry. What inspired these collections and rendering them in precious metals and diamonds?

I love to be challenged and create innovative pieces that are unexpected, for example, our gold and diamond whistle that actually works!

Do you have a favorite way to style your pieces?

I typically like to go for a monochromatic look. I figure out what I am wearing that day, then stack my jewels all in a similar hue. I gravitate more towards our classic pieces with a twist, and I have always been partial to yellow gold.

Charms are becoming incredibly popular today – why do you think that is?

I think the popularity of charms is at an all-time high because they are the ideal way to express yourself, by choosing ones that are personal and have significance to you. Now more than ever, I think people want to wear jewelry that has meaning and makes them feel good.

Your script “Love” collection was a huge hit. How did this change your business?

It was crazy and became an instant overnight sensation that I am proud to say made a lasting effect on the jewelry world. It all started with script words in my handwriting; the first one, of course, was “love,” and then later went on to “peace,” “faith,” “laugh,” etc. I now add a word to each new collection. My last two were “groovy” and “howdy.”

You are the number-one selling jewelry brand at Bergdorf Goodman. What does that mean to you?

It’s hard to believe that I’m the number-one selling jewelry brand and designer for the last 12 of my 17 years at Bergdorf Goodman. Honestly, I still can’t believe it and I feel beyond grateful that I get to wake up every day and do what I love. Coming from humble beginnings and as the daughter of two immigrant parents, I like to think my mom and dad are looking down proudly.

What are your most popular pieces?

For sure, the Love the collection, our rondelle and charm beaded bracelets, multi-charm necklaces, and our heart and butterfly jewels.

How do you handle people who copy or are very closely inspired by your designs?

I try my best not to get caught up in that world; otherwise, it can consume you. I have to just remind myself that imitation is the biggest form of flattery.

What has been your pinch-me moment since starting your career?

When Kate Moss wore my custom “Kate” script necklace on the cover of British Vogue. She wasn’t wearing anything else!

What have been the biggest challenges you had to deal with in your journey?

As with any business, different challenges arise each day, from the price fluctuation of diamonds and gold to manufacturing delays, but it’s all about how you tackle them. I learned early on to invest in my team and that the challenges will never stop, but they are so much easier to deal with when you have solution-oriented people surrounding you.

Do you have a message you want to share with the world through your business?

Absolutely, and it’s been my message from inception. I genuinely want to create pieces that make people happy and laugh. Everything I design is meant to last a lifetime — jewelry with meaning that you can gift or pass down — and I feel so fortunate to be a part of these special memories in a way.

This interview has been edited for clarity.