You know the most wonderful time of the year is near when certain items appear in bulk in the supermarket: legs of ham, gingerbread men, whole turkeys, chocolate logs – and panettone.The last has many detractors, who find it a dry, tasteless waste of calories best consigned to the scrapheap of tradition. That’s a shame, as many people only try the mass-produced varieties and miss out on the delights of artisanal panettone. At its best, panettone should be a billowing, toffee-hued, chef’s-hat…
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