Capes, trains and epic draped details swished across the catwalks as the London Fashion Week trend ‘extra everything’ is sure to make autumn / winter 2023 a season of drama. And, we’re here for it.
You might think this sounds like one of the most fantastical fashion trends, destined to remain on the runway, but it wasn’t all about Princess-length trains or capes worthy of a Disney villain. There was a healthy dose of reality in these extravagant extras leaving you to decide whether you’re going to dial it up or play it down, depending on your mood – and the occasion.
One of the most practical takes on the train was at Ahluwalia, where a sustainably made denim max skirts swept the floor with a mini train that looked sporty and was actually ideal for day wear. Although perhaps not a rainy day… As we’re learning with our baggy jeans, dry weather is kindest to trailing fabric. JW Anderson scalloped the edges of a cloud-like white dress with loops of draped gauze that caught around the hem and trailed behind the model hitting mainly at knee length. Far more practical. We love trends that allow you to incorporate as much – or as little – detail are you dare.
Richard Quinn, a fash-pack favourite, showed a dress detailed with an epic red rose and polka dot print which segued into a cape trailing behind the dress beneath and also hitting mid-calf. It looked slick, sharp and tailored, especially when worn with boots covered in the same print.
Christopher Kane showed a clever way to add in a draped detail with split sleeves on a simple wool suit. There was just enough fabric to make a statement, and make it clear there was a drape, but not so much it overwhelmed the look. Chet Lo also incorporated wafty fabrics that swept past the front row guests. The chiffon sleeves on a sheer Y2K vibe top were an evening appropriate take on the same detail we spotted at Kane, while his black chiffon dress would steal all the attention for a major night Out Out.
Di Petsa focuses on fluid fabrics that skim any body shape (including pregnant bellies) and designer Dimitra’s wet-look details are becoming a signature of her label. It’s natural that this sinuous organic mood would drip down to stunning trains that draped the catwalk floor and it felt naturally inspired, particularly worn barefoot, as the model was.
Nensi Dojaka and Tove both bought some glamour with their train options which would stun at black tie events, or on the red carpet although 16 Arlington showed that just one little detail could update a classic look. A tulle train hanging off a bag made a look that was way beyond basic. Bora Aksu’s ruffles were train like but in sweet white cotton they were more sweetly cottagecore than statement and David Koma also echoed this use of fabric, albeit far more sexily, with a white satin shirt, open to the waist and split so it trailed behind the model.
We’d also like to remind you that whatever appears on the ready to wear catwalks (and at Couture) will definitely trickle through to the bridal world. These ultra embellishments are likely to appear as key trends on wedding dresses next year as they are ideal for making an entrance – or an exit…
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