The Sweet Side Of Bordeaux

When tourists first go to Bordeaux the grand Châteaux tend to grab your attention: the big names, the impressive architecture and stunning cellars. However, as someone who has fortunately been traveling to Bordeaux with some frequency for two decades one of my most magical trips was to the area around Cadillac—yes, the car is named after it—and to the eight sub-regions that produce off-dry white Bordeaux.

Before you start to think that these wines are too sweet and won’t go with food, think again. So many of them are well balanced with bracing acidity that they are great pairings for Asian options as well as much classic French cuisines. They are also great aperitifs and after-dinner sippers with fruit- and caramel-based desserts.

These eight regions are Cérons, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Cadillac, Loupiac, Saint-Macaire, Bordeaux supérieur and Bordeaux moelleux. The well-known area of Sauternes gets a lot more traffic, and ink, as its wines have consistently been so expensive and well rated. So, it is fun to explore some of these lesser-known regions for their beautify and the great wine value that they offer.

There are stunning Châteaux in all eight of these regions as well as great little restaurants. Many of the Châteaux also host guests as well which is a great way to explore and relax on one of these estates.

Some History

The Romans first planted these regions’ vines. Vineyards that were once hard to reach are now easily accessible from Bordeaux by car and train. When you are not eating and drinking yourself silly in the region there are tons of bike paths and beautiful hikes (as well as rivers to explore).

The area is home to more than 350 estates and 1,800 hectares of vines, according to the Union des Vins Doux de Bordeaux. Thirty-eight percent of the area’s wine production is exported and the total number of producers is decreasing.

The eight appellations were created in 2009 by the Union des Grands Vins de Bordeaux Sweet. While the American consumer has long expressed a preference for dry wines, but in reality, really likes some sweetness in the glass. These wines are made of a blend of grapes, that changes from producer to producer, of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. The bulk of the wines are well made and offer a great cost to value ration.

Botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot,” needs to be present for these wines to be created. When misty mornings are followed by sunny afternoons, noble rot enters the grape skins and naturally increases the grapes’ sugar levels.

A Few Standouts

Most of the wonderful wines I tasted are not available in all markets: but hopefully dear reader you will ask your wine merchant to put a few more on the shelves once you finish this story.

The Château de Cerons 2019 was crisp, fruity with good length and grapefruit and citrus notes. The 2015 was deep, rich and intense with quince and peach notes on the palate. The Château itself is beautiful and the hospitality of Xavier and Caroline Perromat—who took over the estate a decade ago—welcoming. They offer a guided tour and tasting of the estate’s wines, followed by a meal in the Chateau’s cozy kitchen.

Chateau Biac is a stunning estate from the minute you enter you are surrounded by amazing views of Garonne River. If you enjoy your visit enough you can even stay at one of the estate’s charming guest houses. The property is now owned by a Lebanese family headed up by Youmna Asseily.

The family had vacationed for many years in the area before buying the property. The family’s sweet Bordeaux is called Secret de Biac and has lovely aromas of stone fruit. Youmna is a great chef and served the 2008 Secret de Biac, with notes of vanilla and spice, with the Cypriot cheese Halloumi with spiced tomato jam. The 2010 vintage, redolent of pear and citrus, was paired with a milk pudding with orange blossom water and rose water.

The Asseily family’s international background speaks to a rapidly evolving wine scene in Bordeaux that is attracting foreign investment. Nea Berglung of Château Carsin is Finnish and her father bought the estate in 1990. Ever a rebel, Nea likes to drink the Château’s Cadillac sweet wine with tonic water.

Another favorite of mine was the Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet 2018, served with fresh oysters from the nearby beach in Arcachon. The wine’s fresh citrus worked beautifully with the oysters. The estate is also home to a castle that can be rented for the week, or weekend.

Other Things Not to Miss

The farmer’s market in Cadillac is a treat. When I was there it was overflowing with seasonal mushrooms, eggplant and radish. After a good walk around the market, you can retire to the La Cave Cadillac, a wine bar in the center of Cadillac that offers salads and other light fare. The local bakery is also a treat.

A fun, daytrip add-on would also be a trip to Arcachon: where the Bordelaise go to the beach. Once there you can dig your feet into the sand and eat oysters, and drink white Bordeaux, to your hearts’ content.