What It’s Like to be a Female Tour Guide in Saudi Arabia

And I love to bring people to Hail, also in the north. Hail is a historic area — Lawrence of Arabia spent a lot of time there — and the landscape is stunning. The sand dunes, the red mountains, and just the beautiful shapes of the rocks and rock inscriptions. You can be driving and driving, then suddenly you come across a small oasis, a cluster of palms between the mountains.

Are there many other women tour guides in Saudi Arabia?

There are many, many female tour guides, and even more in training. In the class that I took to become a licensed guide, there were twice as many women as men, and I think that’s pretty common.

A lot of potential female visitors might have questions about how to dress in Saudi Arabia. I know you don’t wear a head scarf or an abaya. Did you stop doing that as soon as the rule changed a few years ago?

It was gradual for me. At first, I would still wear an abaya and hijab in the city, but not if I was out in the desert or in the mountains. But then I moved to Riyadh for work and I found myself more comfortable and happier without an abaya, as long as I was still dressed modestly. Now, I don’t wear an abaya or hijab. The only exceptions are if I’m going somewhere official — the courthouse or a police station — or if I’m going to a mosque. If I’m going to pray, I need a scarf.

Some people might stare because it’s still kind of a new thing to see, but they respect my choice. I once had an Uber driver in Al Jouf who told me: “Look at me, with my beard and my mustache. I’m a man, but I married the woman my mother chose for me. But look at you, without an abaya: You’re a woman, and you made your choice. You’re braver than me.”

What do you advise women visitors in terms of how to dress?

Some Saudis will recommend that women visitors wear a scarf. But why? It’s OK not to. In rural areas, they might stare at you, but I find that, even there, most people are welcoming. And the people who aren’t welcoming won’t say anything because there is no longer a rule about it. I always feel safe, even though I travel alone and without an abaya. Come and I’ll take you to the Red Sea, and you’ll see — there, you can wear a bikini. The only exception is if you visit a mosque. There, it’s mandatory to cover your legs, and for women to wear long sleeves and a scarf.

What do you like to do when you’re not guiding tours?

I love traveling around Saudi Arabia, and I did it even before I started working as a tour guide. I’ve also been a rock climber since 2019, and I love going to Tanomah, which is where I first learned to climb.

I know it wasn’t that long ago that Saudi women were granted the right to drive. What do people think when they see you behind the wheel of your truck?

I must admit that I do love the reactions of people seeing me driving. Sometimes in rural places, people follow me, just because they’re curious. “Is this really a woman? Is it not just a man with curly hair?” But then they see I’m a woman and they call me, “My daughter! My daughter!” And they ask if I’m a tourist.